You don’t taste as you go

1. You don’t taste as you go.

Result: The flavors or textures of an otherwise excellent dish are out of balance or unappealing.

For most cooks, tasting is automatic, but when it’s not, the price can be high. Recipes don’t always call for the "right" amount of seasoning, cooking times are estimates, and results vary depending on your ingredients, your stove, altitude…and a million other factors. Your palate is the control factor.

Think that experienced cooks don’t forget this most basic rule? Cooking LightAssociate Food Editor Tim Cebula was sous chef in a notable restaurant when he served up "caramelized" pineapple that somehow refused to brown. Turns out Tim had coated the fruit in salt, not sugar. "That’s why it wouldn’t caramelize."

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Sweet & salty chicken wings

Sweet & salty chicken wings

Chicken wings are one of my all-time favourite pub foods. I mean, mmm! So good. And I often go for the stickiest, sweetest ones on the menu. Honey garlic and teriyaki are some of my favourites, and this recipe is a combination of those two sauces.  

These chicken wings are sweet and salty with an Asian flavour theme. There's garlic in there, soy sauce, honey, plus a few other ingredients that make for an awesome wing sauce. Half the sauce is used as a marinade and the other half gets reduced in a saucepan and tossed with the crispy wings when they come out of the oven. That's mega chicken wing goodness!

Here's how I made them:

1 tbsp garlic, minced

3/4 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup brown sugar

3/4 cup water

1/2 tsp ground ginger

3 lbs (approximately 3 dozen) chicken wings

1/4 cup liquid honey

1 green onion, chopped, for garnish

I stirred together the first five ingredients in a medium mixing bowl. Just over half of the sauce was poured over the raw chicken wings in a large baking dish, and the remaining sauce was covered and set aside in the fridge. The marinating wings were covered and set in the fridge for 4 hours (feel free to marinate these overnight for extra yumminess!).

To cook, I set my oven to 375 degrees (F) and transferred the chicken wings to two parchment lined baking sheets, discarding the marinade. They baked for 45 minutes, turning once half-way through the cooking time. Meantime, I poured the reserved sauce into a small saucepan and added the honey. The sauce bubbled over medium-high heat, while stirring constantly, for 15 minutes before being pouring into a large heat-proof bowl. When the crispy and golden wings came out of the oven, I tossed them in the sauce and plated them with a sprinkling of green onion on top.

These were so good! I think I'll be making chicken wings again soon.

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Hershey's Special Dark Truffle Brownie Cheesecake

Hershey's Special Dark Truffle Brownie Cheesecake

I do believe that a dessert this delicious is criminal. That's why I'm putting this cheesecake into the "Delicious Protection Program."

Ingredients for Brownie Layer:
6 tablespoons melted butter or margarine
1-1/4 cups sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 eggs
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/3 cup Hershey's cocoa
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt

Ingredients for Truffle Cheesecake Layer:
3 packages (8 ounces each) cream cheese, softened
3/4 cup sugar
4 eggs
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups (12 ounce package) Hershey's Special Dark Chocolate Chips, divided
1/2 teaspoon shortening (do not use butter, margarine, spread or oil)

Directions:
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease 9-inch springform pan.

2. For Brownie Layer, stir together melted butter, 1-1/4 cups sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla. Add 2 eggs; stir until blended. Stir in flour, cocoa, baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon salt; blend well. Spread in prepared pan. Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until brownie layer pulls away from sides of pan.

3. Meanwhile for Truffle Cheesecake Layer, beat cream cheese and 3/4 cup sugar with electric mixer on medium speed in large bowl until smooth. Gradually beat in 4 eggs, heavy cream, 2 teaspoons vanilla and 1/4 teaspoon salt until well blended.

4. Set aside 2 tablespoons chocolate chips. Place remaining chips in large microwave-safe bowl. Microwave at Medium (50%) 1-1/2 minutes or until chips are melted and smooth when stirred. Gradually blend melted chocolate into cheesecake batter.

5. Remove Brownie Layer from oven and immediately spoon cheesecake mixture over brownie. Return to oven; continue baking 45 to 50 minutes or until center is almost set. Remove from oven to wire rack. With knife, loosen cake from side of pan. Cool to room temperature. Remove side of pan.

6. Place remaining 2 tablespoons chocolate chips and shortening in small microwave-safe bowl. Microwave at Medium 30 seconds or until chips are melted and mixture is smooth when stirred. Drizzle over top of cheesecake. Cover; refrigerate several hours until cold. Garnish as desired. Cover and refrigerate leftover cheesecake.

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Opéra Cake

Opéra Cake

Adapted from Le Cordon Bleu Home Collection (Chocolate)

This elegant chocolate-covered cake, whose invention is attributed to the Dalloyau pastry house, consists of layers of biscuit soaked in coffee syrup and garnished with butter cream and chocolate ganache.

Preparation time: 2 hours + refrigeration
Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

Almond sponge

• 75 grams (2 ½ ounces) icing sugar
• 2 ½ tablespoons flour
• 75 grams (2 ½ ounces) almond powder
• 3 eggs
• 15 grams (1/2 ounce) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• 3 egg whites
• 1 tablespoon caster (superfine) sugar

Ganache

• 200 grams (6 ½ ounces) superior-quality dark chocolate, finely chopped
• 120 ml (4 fl ounces) milk
• 110 ml (3 ¾ fl. ounces) thick cream
• 50 grams (1 ¾ ounces) unsalted butter, softened)

Coffee syrup

• 1 ½ tablespoons sugar
• 1 ½ tablespoons instant coffee
• 90 ml (3 fluid ounces) water

Butter cream

• 70 grams (2 ¼ ounces) caster (superfine) sugar
• 1 egg white
• 1 tablespoon instant coffee
• 100 g (3 ¼ ounces) unsalted butter, softened

Directions

1. To prepare the sponge layer, first, preheat the oven to 220 degrees C (425 degrees F). Line a 20 x 30 cm (8 x 12 inches) baking pan with parchment paper. In a large bowl, sift together the flour and icing sugar, then add the powdered almonds. Mix well. Add eggs, one at a time, and beat until pale. Add the melted butter.

1. Beat the egg whites until stiff, then gradually add sugar and continue  beating until stiff peaks are obtained.

1. Add 1/3 of the beaten egg whites to the batter, mixing well, then incorporate the remainder, folding until just combined. Pour onto the baking tray and spread evenly. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, or until golden and springy when touched. Loosen the edges with a knife and carefully turn out onto a wire rack covered with a sheet of parchment paper. Allow to cool.

1. Place finely chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl and set aside. Bring milk and 30 ml (1 fluid ounce) of the cream to a boil. Pour the hot liquid onto the chocolate. Wait 30 seconds, then add the butter and mix until smooth. Let cool until a spreadable consistency is obtained.

1. To prepare the coffee syrup, place sugar and 90 ml (3 fluid ounces) of water in a pan and stir until dissolved. Bring to a boil and add coffee.

1. To prepare butter cream, place sugar and 3 teaspoons of water in a heavy skillet and make a sugar syrup, i.e. stir until sugar is completely dissolved, then boil, without stirring, until syrup reaches soft-ball stage, between 116  and 118 degrees C (214 – 244 degrees F).

1. Beat the egg white until soft peaks are obtained. Continue beating while incorporating the hot syrup. Beat until mixture is cold. Dissolve instant coffee in 1 teaspoon of boiling water, cool and add to butter. Add one half of the egg-white mixture and beat well, then gently fold in the remainder until well combined.

1. Using a sharp knife, divide the sponge into three equal sections and carefully peel off parchment paper from sections. Each should be 10 x 20 cm (4 x 8 inches). Soak the first section with one-third of the coffee syrup, then spread over it half of the butter cream. Place the next section of sponge on top, then soak with coffee syrup and spread with half of the ganache. Place the last section on top, soak with remaining syrup and spread with the rest of the butter cream, taking care to smooth the surface. Chill until butter cream firmly set.

1. Melt the rest of the ganache over a pan of very hot water. Bring the remaining cream to the boiling point and incorporate into ganache. Allow to cool until a smooth, spreadable consistency is obtained and spread over top of cake.

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Mini Cheesecakes with wine Gelées

• ACTIVE: 30 MIN
• TOTAL TIME: 1 HR PLUS CHILLING
• SERVINGS: MAKES FOUR 3-INCH CAKES

• MAKE-AHEAD
• STAFF-FAVORITE

Kate Zuckerman, pastry chef at Manhattan's Chanterelle and author of the new book, The Sweet Life, thinks most cheesecakes are too heavy and sweet. Her recipe uses goat cheese to lighten the texture and tangy crème fraîche to cut the sweetness. Here, she tops mini cheescakes with wine gelées—a new kind of wine-and-cheese-pairing.

1. Preheat the oven to 325°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut out four 3-inch rounds of shirt cardboard. Brush the insides of four 3-inch-round and 2 1/2-inch-deep ring molds with butter. In a food processor, grind the crackers with the melted butter and 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Set the molds on the baking sheet and line the bottoms with the cardboard rounds, trimming to fit. Pack the crumbs into the molds; press to compact. Bake for 10 minutes. Let cool.
2. Meanwhile, in a bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg, egg yolk, salt and the remaining 1/2 cup of sugar at medium speed until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the goat cheese and beat until smooth. Fold in the crème fraîche. Spoon the mixture into the molds and smooth the tops. Bake for about 30 minutes, until the cheesecakes are just set but not browned. Let the cheesecakes cool, then refrigerate them until chilled, at least 1 hour.
3. Heat a sharp, thin-bladed knife under hot water; dry the knife. Carefully run the blade around the edge of each cheesecake. Pressing up on the cardboard, ease the cheesecakes out of the molds; return to the baking sheet. Cut four 11-by-2 1/2-inch strips of parchment paper. Wrap the paper around the perimeter of each cheesecake to form a collar that extends 1 inch above the surface; secure with tape.
4. In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water and let soften. Microwave at high power for about 15 seconds or just until the gelatin is melted. Put the 4 wines in separate ramekins. Add 2 teaspoons of the sugar to the rosé and to the Pinot Noir and microwave for 20 seconds; stir to dissolve the sugar. Stir 1 teaspoon of the melted gelatin into each of the 4 wines. Let the wines stand until cooled, about 10 minutes. Pour one of the wine gelées over each cheesecake and refrigerate until chilled and set, about 20 minutes.
5. Remove the parchment-paper collar from each cheesecake. Carefully remove the cardboard bottoms and serve.

NOTES Variation To make one 6-inch cheesecake: Butter a 6-inch springform pan and wrap the outside in foil. Press the graham cracker crumbs evenly over the bottom and bake for 10 minutes. Set the springform pan inside a small roasting pan and fill with the cheesecake mixture. Add enough hot water to reach halfway up the side of the springform pan. Bake for 1 hour and 20 minutes, or until the cheesecake is firm and set. Remove from the water bath and let cool on a rack. Remove the foil and refrigerate until chilled. Unmold the cheesecake and wrap it in a parchment-paper collar that extends 1 inch above the surface; secure with tape. Pour 1/2 cup of one of the wines into a bowl; if using rosé or Pinot Noir, add 1 tablespoon of sugar. Microwave at high power for about 30 seconds, or until the sugar is dissolved. In a small bowl, sprinkle 1 1/2 teaspoons of gelatin over 1 1/2 tablespoons of water and let soften. Heat at high power for 15 seconds, or until the gelatin is melted. Add it to the wine and let stand until slightly thickened but not set, about 10 minutes. Pour the wine gelée over the cheesecake and refrigerate for about 1 hour, or until set. Remove the paper collar before serving

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Millefeuille au chocolat blanc, chantilly chocolatée et framboises – White Chocolate Millefeuille, Chocolate Chantilly and Raspberries

Millefeuille au chocolat blanc, chantilly chocolatée et framboises – White Chocolate Millefeuille, Chocolate Chantilly and Raspberries

You need:

• 200 g + 100 g white chocolate (I used Valrhona)
• 10 cl heavy cream to make chantilly
• 400 g fresh raspberries
• 2 to 5 tbsp confectioner sugar
• Wild Australian Wattle seeds (which is my personal addition, not in the original recipe. They are a little treasure given to me by my friend Kim! Thanks Kim, I love those seeds! They can be bought online at Zingerman’s.

Note on wattle seeds:
Seeds of a variety of acaria collected by Aboriginal people West of the Great Divide, roasted and ground to amplify their natural nutty flavor. Great with chocolate and nuts.

Steps:

• Melt 200 g chocolate using the bain-marie method.
• Pour the chocolate on top of a silicone sheet, make it even with the help of a cookie cutter, and let cool until cold (I placed in the fridge to speed up the process a bit).
• When you reach this stage, cut 12 small rectangular pieces.
• Whip the cream into chantilly and add the remaining melted white chocolate.
• Add the wattle seeds (optional).
• Take a small plate where you place a white chocolate rectangular.
• Top over with the white chocolate cream (use a decoration bag).
• Place another chocolate rectangular over and press gently.
• Place some cream, a few raspberries and some cream over. The cream serves as “glue” for the dessert to stay in place.
• Place the last rectangular on top, pressing gently again.
• Decorate with confectioner sugar.

Note: I made individual portions, about 1.5 inch by 4 inches.

As much as I am not a white chocolate eater, I really enjoyed this simple dessert.

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Mille Feuille with Dragon Fruit

Daring Bakers: Mille Feuille/Napoleon

NO NEED TO SPELL IT OUT: MAGNIFICENT MILLE FEUILLE 

Our October 2012 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Suz of Serenely Full. Suz challenged us to not only tackle buttery and flaky puff pastry, but then take it a step further and create a sinfully delicious Mille Feuille dessert with it!

(I have to say I didn't feel any guilt creating – or eating – this dessert!)

Suz provided an excellent recipe and step-by-step instructions for the mille feuille, from the pastry to the filling and assembly. I followed the recipe for the puff pastry exactly and didn't have any problems.

To make a small mille feuille, I only needed half of the pastry and used the other half for some old-school cream horns which took me back to my childhood.

Suz wrote that the traditional mille feuille is filled with a vanilla pastry cream (crème pâtissière). It is also known as a Napoleon (thought to refer to Naples in Italy rather than the diminutive French emperor), a custard slice or a vanilla slice. It’s often topped with royal icing and distinctive chocolate squiggles.

Succulent and sweet red dragon fruit

Well, my strips of pastry were a little burnt and so I thought I would draw attention away from that by building the layers up with slices of fruit. I've read that strawberries are commonly used, but I stayed local and used red dragon fruit. Instead of a custard-based pastry cream, my mille feuille has a filling of whipped cream and jam – it takes less work but is no less delicious, I think. The vanilla icing for the top is also much easier to make and doesn't contain raw egg whites as in a royal icing. The chocolate icing for the feathered effect is a paste of cocoa powder, powdered sugar and water.

French for "thousand sheets", the mille feuille gets its name from the multi-layered puff pastry which expands when cooked. However, the pastry layers of the mille feuille are actually pressed down while baking to prevent this from happening and I've always wondered why. None of my reference books nor online searches has an explanation. I posed this question on the Daring Bakers forum and Heather, Renata and Suz had thought about it too. Renata and Suz suggest it might be for texture since puffed up, "bumpy" pastry isn't very neat or flat. That's certainly plausible.

A thousand visible sheets or not, no one can say this dish wouldn't be the high point of any high tea.

The slicing could be a little less messy :-p

Mille Feuille with Dragon Fruit

Serves 6

325g puff pastry, preferably homemade

Vanilla Icing

125g (1 cup) icing sugar, sifted

¼ tsp vanilla extract

Chocolate Icing

30g (¼ cup) icing sugar, sifted

½ tbsp cocoa powder

Filling

110g raspberry jam

160ml cream, whipped

½ large red dragon fruit

On a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry out to about 30cm x 24cm. Cut the rectangle into three equal pieces (10cm x 24cm).

Place the pastry on a large baking sheet lined with grease-proof paper. Prick the pastry strips all over with a fork. Place another sheet of grease-proof paper over the top and then a heavy baking tray.

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Bake the pastry for about 25 minutes, removing the top layer of grease-proof paper and tray 10 minutes before the end for the tops to brown. Keep an eye on them and lower the temperature if they are browning too much. Cool on a wire rack.

To make Chocolate Icing: Mix the icing sugar and cocoa with ½ tbsp hot water to get a smooth paste like melted chocolate, adding more water if necessary. Spoon into a paper icing bag.

To make Vanilla Icing: In a heatproof bowl, mix the icing sugar and vanilla with 1-1½ tsp hot water. Stand the bowl over a pan of simmering water, stirring until the icing is smooth and glossy. Spread icing on one of the cooled pastry strips. Pipe diagonal lines with Chocolate Icing. Drag a skewer along the icing at intervals in alternate directions to give a feathered effect. Leave to set on a wire rack.

To make the filling: Peel the dragon fruit and cut the half into four wedges. Cut each wedge into thin slices. Spread jam over the two un-iced pastry strips and top with slices of dragon fruit, overlapping them slightly. Cover the fruit with whipped cream. Finally, sandwich the three layers together with the iced strip on top.

Cut into six slices with a serrated knife and serve.

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